Watch designs that have truly stood the test of time
The Watch Edit: Masters of Time by DFS
Vintage is one of the important themes in the watch collecting community today, having quickly evolved from a term reserved for older timepieces to an important source of inspiration. Whether it is an original reference from the ‘70s or a limited-edition modern revamp, they certainly speak to a sizable number of enthusiasts, collectors, and sometimes spark interest beyond the usual audience. As to why they are so popular in the first place, it could very well be the unique aesthetic from a specific era, or the alluring patina that ages like no other; it could also be the lengthy but satisfying meander in hunting down from a proper provenance, or, most important of all, the story and the affiliated historical values that succeeded the originality of a watch, or even a brand, where years after it is still being remembered, valued and treasured for the same reference.
Cartier’s watch designs have become truly timeless, as worn by actor Rami Malek
It is safe to assume brands are giving these sentiments a nod by reissuing some of their most iconic references from yesteryear, with variations delivering visual or mechanical nuances that watch lovers adore and utilizing modern manufacturing technologies that largely improve the robustness and longevity of the watch. These modern interpretations graciously take do away with some of the concerns on buying and wearing a vintage piece, relative to origin and durability, often making them a more friendly and appealing option in collecting vintage-inspired watches.
When it comes to a unique look and design, Cartier has accumulated an extensive archive of both their jewelry and watchmaking collections across their 175 years of history. During the early 20th century, Cartier had three locations in Paris, London, and New York which operated independently with jewelers and watchmakers of different origins; it resulted in a great variety of watches that became especially coveted today. The original Tank designed by Louis Cartier in 1917 was one of them, a time-only watch with utmost elegance that has since evolved into a blueprint for the many variants, such as the Tank Cintrée, Tank Basculante and the Tank Chinoise, to name just a few. Debuted in 1922, the Tank Chinoise featured an interesting case inspired by the prominent feature of horizontal beams and joineries found in Chinese architecture, which Cartier has just brought back a century after, with six elaborations of different case metals and dials, making a statement that good design stands the test of time.
Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont’s request for a watch worn in flight led to Cartier creating a specific model
Other than the mean of fashionable accessories, watches were also a purposeful tool to have in the past, from telling time to additional functions specified to the need of activities such as aviation and diving. The Breitling Navitimer, for example, is a watch that came out in 1954 addressing the requirements of active pilots. The combination of a slide rule around the bezel and the chronograph complication together allows quick calculations of the average speed and flight distance covered within a certain timeframe, which was especially helpful with the analogue instrumentation in use at the time. The Navitimer has remained in Breitling’s catalogue until now, with conspicuous differences found throughout references over the years, including those with a quartz movement from the ‘70s. And although the slide rule is somewhat anachronistic given the ubiquity of modern tools, its rare adaptation has made the watch so iconic that it remains on the modern Navitimers as a unique signature and a nod to its origin as a true aviation tool.
Astronaut Scott Carpenter chose to wear a Breitling, leading the watch to become an instant classic
Just as spotting a Porsche 917K would remind one of an exciting part of motorsport history, the TAG Heuer Monaco perhaps also embodies a similar sentiment. Sported and therefore famed by the “King of Cool”, Steve McQueen, during the movie “Le Mans”, the watch gained an instant success by appearing on the silver screen thanks to the visionary move of Jack Heuer of ensuring it would be visible to movie viewers all around the world. The celebrity effect greatly benefited the instantly recognizable rectangular case and has since cemented the relationship between TAG Heuer and motorsports. The story lives on till now and to those who are in the know and treasure the nostalgic bits in their watch certainly find themselves resonating with the meanings and history behind the modern TAG Heuer Monaco.
Steve McQueen famously wore a Heuer Monaco for the movie Le Mans
While it is a brief summary of how vintage watches are important from a collecting perspective, the above examples are great entry points to those who would be curious to discover what’s under the tip of the iceberg. Ranging from stories, patinas, specifications, conditions, provenance, there are countless fascinating nuances to study in the world of vintage watches. Even now, there are still watches and stories that are being uncovered as more scholars and collectors are sharing their knowledge from research, and the modern reiterations of these vintage references are surely a great conduit to attract new interests while bringing reliable options to broaden the appeal towards all watch enthusiasts.
