Samaritaine, from the past to the present
June 12, 2024
Historian Maud Hacker organizes anecdote-filled tours of the department store. She shares elements of the Samaritaine adventure, from its beginnings in 1870 under founders Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jay, up to its extraordinary renovation and re-opening in 2021.
Why did Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jay choose this location?
It was a strategic approach. The Pont-Neuf is the oldest bridge in Paris, and in the 19th century, it was the busiest road. It linked the very chic Saint-Germain-des-Prés with the working-class district of the Les Halles market, where all the merchants of that time were located. At the current location of the Louis Vuitton headquarters (rue du Pont Neuf) there was also a department store called “La Belle Jardinière” which specialized in fabrics for menswear. For strategic reasons, Ernest Cognacq chose to locate opposite his competition, specializing in items intended for women. The end of the 19th century saw the emergence of new types of stores: the department store was born.
What was their initial ambition?
The Cognacq-Jay’s were hard-working. They were driven by the desire to be the best retailers in Paris. Through sheer determination, they succeeded! Ernest launched his calico business under a large red umbrella on the Pont Neuf. He had very little money. However, he eventually became a millionaire. The young couple was determined and worked relentlessly. On Saturdays, they would do the books, and on Sundays, they were already planning the decor for the next shop windows. The couple’s story is legendary: a quintessentially French success story.
What could one find there?
“You can find everything at Samaritaine,” who doesn’t remember the slogan? Founded in 1870 and originally located at the Cova café, the first store sold only fabrics for women. Then, they began buying buildings at the location of the current department store (former store 2) and expanded their offering to all sorts of items. With the arrival of metro line 1, they set out to conquer houses towards the rue de Rivoli. They demonstrated intelligence and the ability to react quickly while developing their strategy based on the city’s evolution. Before long, there were more than 80 departments that offered lingerie, toys, gardening items, saddlery, sports equipment, pets, etc.
How did they expand the department store?
From 1870 to 1934, they never stopped! They were very intelligent. Marie-Louise was in charge of accounting and the proper management of the store, while Ernest concentrated on real estate investments. Each new building purchase made Ernest Cognacq proud: he erected a flag on the roof of each new building! Samaritaine then expanded to 4 stores. A veritable conquest of the district between the Seine and the rue du Rivoli!
How was it received by Parisians?
At the time, it was a novelty: the symbol of an architectural revolution and a new lifestyle. Women spent time there, between the restaurants, activities and shopping. It was a place to meet! To this day, Parisians’ attachment to Samaritaine remains very strong. The visitors I meet all have a childhood memory to tell me (my first moped, my first doll, etc.). The department store elicits an emotion, an enduring zest for life. Samaritaine is still a party!
What are its distinguishing features?
The stairway is the building’s spinal column. Frantz Jourdain, its architect, said: “I wanted to create a stairway stage.” Composed of beautiful balconies, the stairway is the perfect place to see and be seen. It feels as though you are at the Opéra Garnier! To this day, our customers love to photograph the beauty of its decor, composed of oak leaves covered in gold leaf. It’s a dream! The department store’s iconic peacock, which can be viewed on the 5th floor, was created by his son, Francis Jourdain. Like this majestic animal that unfurls its beautiful colored feathers, we come to Samaritaine to strut our stuff! Émile Zola’s iconic 1883 novel, “Au bonheur des Dames” makes many references to the Samaritaine’s architecture: a veritable “Cathedral of commerce.” We now know that Zola asked his friend Frantz Jourdain to describe the ideal department store… This was several years before construction began. Its architecture reflects the elegance of the Belle Époque: Think crinolines, flowing dresses, etc.
What kind of relationship did they have with their employees?
They regarded their employees as family and wanted to protect them. In 1916, they created the Cognacq-Jay Foundation, providing maternity wards, nurseries, low-income housing, retirement homes, etc. The employees were happy and remained very loyal to Samaritaine for generation after generation. The Cognacq-Jays became millionaires, but they never forgot their humble beginnings.
How long was the store closed, and what were the major projects?
It closed in 2005 and remained so for 16 years. As for the part classified as a historical monument, all of the elements were restored using traditional craftsmanship — the Eiffel-type structure, the 5th-floor frieze, decorative elements — the LVMH group always respects heritage. On the other hand, the avant-guard style of the place shows in the choice of the Japanese architectural firm Sanaa, which designed the two interior courts (the dôme and the ombrelle), and the wavy facade. This modern facade is impressive in its beauty. I am certain that within a few years it will come to symbolize Samaritaine! It provides a sublime mirror effect on the historic buildings located on the rue de Rivoli. It incorporates the new with the old. Furthermore, light is also the key strength of the department store’s architecture. On both the former and the new building, it enters from every side.
What materials were used?
Many materials make up Samaritaine’s structure. Historical monument-classified elements were restored, such as the large Art Nouveau panels composed of yellow lava stone on the exterior facades, the glazed stoneware plates by artist Alexandre Bigot, the plaster decorative elements by the SOCRA workshop, and the gold leaf on the Gohard workshops. The ombrelle and the dôme are lightweight steel structures, made in Italy with three-dimensional geometry. As for the glass roof on the top floor, it has “electrochrome” glazing, creating dynamic glass that is able to change based on sunlight! It darkens in summer, and lightens in winter using an electrical impulse. For the glass floor on the 5th level, the Sanaa architectural agency collaborated with glassmaker Emmanuel Barrois, who designed a unique laminated glass construction. In all, it took 2,500 hand-crafted sheets of glass! To recreate depth and texture, a treatment was carried out using a synthetic resin base with metallic pigments — normally used in cosmetics — to obtain a light champagne color.
What can we find today on Samaritaine’s 6 floors?
Real wonders! Fashion, accessories, beauty, costume jewelry and fine jewelry, watches, shoes, etc. The selection is at the forefront of trends for men and women! The large staircase remains the centerpiece. We are very proud because it was not destroyed. It is a point of observation and wonder that is also used for fashion shows, as it was recently for the Patou fashion house.
The beauty space at level -1 is the largest in Europe. What was the inspiration for it?
It is 3,400 m2, with the “Cinq Monde” spa. It is a warm, welcoming space. With its natural light, we don’t realize that we are going down to the basement. The mosaic decor amazes us with its precious Carrara marble. The perfume section is exceptional, with a selection of top brands and niche brands. Next to the green space is the spa, a genuine bubble of relaxation, designed for a bit of serenity in the middle of the bustle of Paris. Come join us for a sublime spa experience!
